Everything, but in English 🇬🇧

Hello and welcome to this ultimate guide on selective bettas💙. This website is French, but I decided to create a page especially for our English-speaking friends and betta enthusiasts🌿! Here, you will find absolutely ALL the information from the website.

Here are the different chapters🌻:

•  The History of Bettas
•  Longevity
•  Tank Size
•  Lighting
•  Water Parameters
•  Diseases
•  Feeding
• Creating a Sorority

📃The History of Betta Splendens / Siamese Fighting Fish📃

The Betta splendens, also known as the Siamese fighting fish, originates from the tropical freshwater regions of Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Malaysia.

The history of this fish dates back over 600 years when the inhabitants of Thailand began breeding bettas for male fighting competitions. These fish were selected for their aggression and endurance rather than their vibrant colors. King Rama III of Thailand, who was passionate about these fights, helped popularize them by offering specimens to European naturalists in the 19th century.

Over time, Betta splendens was introduced to Europe and the United States, where it gained popularity as an aquarium fish. Breeders have developed various varieties with spectacular colors and fin shapes, making this fish even more attractive to aquarists.

Today, Betta splendens is appreciated for its beauty and diversity, making it one of the most popular aquarium fish in the world.

► Contrary to popular belief, wild bettas, although very different from domesticated bettas, do not live in puddles in their natural state. It is only during rare periods of drought that their survival is compromised, as living in a few liters of water is not ideal for any fish.

🌿Longevity - Fighting Fish / Selective Betta🌿

The question of how long bettas live is not as straightforward as it might seem, as there are many variables that can affect the lifespan of bettas.

These activities include:

The age of the betta at the time of purchase.
The level of care the betta receives.
The betta's diet.
The size of the betta's tank.
The amount of exercise the fish gets.
The betta owner's knowledge of common betta diseases and their treatment.

🌻Tank Size for Selective Betta Fish 🌻

► For our beloved selective bettas, the ideal tank volume varies according to their fins:

🐟 A long-finned betta requires a minimum of 8 gallons. Their long, heavy fins prevent them from swimming for extended periods.

🐟 A short-finned betta requires a minimum of 16 gallons. Plakats are lively and swim a lot thanks to their short fins, which resemble natural forms.

🐟 A Betta Giant requires a minimum of 21 gallons. They are much larger than regular bettas, thus requiring more space.

📚Lighting : Do bettas need light?📚

The answer is yes, of course. Bettas have evolved in the tropics, where the sun rises around 6 a.m. and sets around 6 p.m. Therefore, they are essentially "designed" to live in environments where they receive about 12 hours of natural light every day, all year round.

Despite this, bettas do not require particularly strong lighting in the aquarium. Soft, diffused light, aided by floating plants, will be highly appreciated.

Never place your betta's aquarium in a spot where it receives direct sunlight, as this can lead to algae growth and sudden temperature increases that can be fatal to your fish.

💙Water Parameters :💙

► The betta is a warm-water fish! It is unfortunately still too often considered a temperate or cold-water fish. The aquarium temperature should be between 24°C and 28°C (75°F to 82°F). The pH should be between 6 and 7, and the GH between 6 and 8.

If you have a conductivity meter: the ideal range is between 200 and 500 ppm.

To properly care for your bettas, here is a list of the various possible diseases:

 

🍓Fin Rot / Tears: Frayed, eroded, and rotten fin edges.

Fin rot is probably the most common disease in bettas. It is often confused with fin tears, which can result from either a problem with the betta or from rubbing against sharp decorations. 

During inspection, the fins will show visible signs of the disease, such as red or spotted edges, sometimes bloody along the affected areas, or eroded with a burnt plastic effect or a whitish film. 

If the fin rot reaches the body, the betta is doomed to die. You must absolutely place your betta in a hospital tank (explanation at the bottom of the page).

 

 🍓Oodinium / Velvet Disease: Infections, white or yellow spots.

Is your betta rubbing against decorations to try to dislodge parasites? It might be velvet disease, a parasite that causes a yellow or white "dusting" on the body. 

If untreated, velvet disease can lead to death. You must absolutely place your betta in a hospital tank (explanation at the bottom of the page).

 

 🍓Tumor / Cyst: Abnormal white growths.

A tumor or cyst is a lump on the skin that can be external or internal. External tumors are the easiest to identify, as you can see them on the surface of the betta's scales.

Internal tumors are often impossible to see, especially if they are small. Therefore, you must rely on observing your betta's behaviors to determine if something is wrong.

White tumors cannot be treated and are generally benign as long as they do not cover the mouth, gills, or anus.

 

 🍓Intestinal Blockage: Abnormally swollen belly.

Digestive transit can be severely impacted by dry food (such as pellets, flakes, or sticks) or overly fatty food. This gradually leads to constipation or intestinal blockage. In severe and advanced cases, it can lead to the death of the betta. To try to expel the food, you should implement a fast of about 5 days, up to a maximum of 7 days.

 

🍓 Exophthalmia: Swollen eye.

This disease affects the betta's eye and causes one or both eyes to swell outward. These symptoms can be very surprising, but they are treatable. The most common cause is prolonged exposure to poor water quality. Exophthalmia can be cured without long-term damage or loss of vision. However, if you are not quick and it lasts too long, your betta may lose an eye. You must absolutely place your betta in a hospital tank (explanation at the bottom of the page).

 

🍓Dropsy: Extreme swelling of the body and scales.

Dropsy can be caused by numerous issues, including viral diseases, parasites, poor nutrition, and bacteria. Dropsy is not a disease but rather a symptom of what is happening inside the betta's body. This creates the accumulation of fluid and the swelling of failing organs (liver and kidneys). You will notice the scales sticking outwards, resembling a pinecone effect. This symptom is extremely deadly. Dropsy is not really treatable. 

 

🍓Swim Bladder Disorder: Difficulty swimming properly.

Overfeeding can lead to bloating and malfunction of the swim bladder, as the ingested food puts pressure on it, causing swimming issues.

This disorder is more common in young bettas and certain breeds like doubletail. Symptoms include difficulty swimming, constantly being in an "S" shape, changing depth frequently, laying on the bottom of the aquarium, and being unable to swim horizontally. Swim bladder disorder is not contagious and usually resolves on its own.

 

🍓 White Spot Disease (Ich): Body and fins.

White spot disease is characterized by small white spots similar in size to a grain of sugar. These spots are visible to the naked eye and appear along the body and fins of the betta.

You will also notice the betta rubbing against objects in the aquarium to try to dislodge the parasites. You must absolutely place your betta in a hospital tank (explanation at the bottom of the page).

 

 🍓Is Your Betta Refusing to Eat?

Changes in the environment, such as a new aquarium or different water parameters, can stress your betta. Ensure that the aquarium is properly heated (between 24°C and 28°C) and that the water is clean.
- Bettas can be picky eaters. Try different live or frozen foods specific for bettas, such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, or daphnia.
- Check for signs of illness, such as white spots, damaged fins, or lethargic behavior. If these symptoms are present, consult an aquarist specialist.
- If your betta is new, it may take a few days to acclimate to its new environment. Be patient and continue to offer food regularly.
- Ensure that the water parameters are correct. A water test can reveal issues with pH, ammonia, or nitrite levels that could affect your fish's appetite.

🥕Here is the list of the best foods to give to your little betta:🥕

Mosquito larvae: A very rich and low-fat food, to be given 2 or 3 times a week. Mosquito larvae resemble small worms that live attached to the surface of the water to breathe and feed. They are characterized by an elongated abdomen and a large head, and measure a few millimeters. They can move by undulating motion.

Bloodworms: A perfect but very fatty food, to be given once a week. The chironomid larva, known as the bloodworm, is a larva of dipteran insects that resemble mosquitoes. These larvae are widely used as genetic study models, as well as in aquaristics for fish feeding and by anglers as bait.

Brine shrimp: Crustaceans perfect for betta feeding, but fatty and salty, to be given once a week. Brine shrimp is a genus of crustaceans, the only one in the family Artemiidae. They are small crustaceans living in salt lakes, lagoons, and salt marshes. The most known species is Artemia salina. Brine shrimp are often incorrectly called Artemias.

Tubifex worms: Small red worms that are quite fatty, to be given once a week as well. Tubifex are small, thin, reddish oligochaete worms that live in colonies on the bottoms of ponds, lakes, and slow-moving streams. They form very dense colonies in patches.

Daphnia: Tiny crustaceans related to shrimp, to be given 3 times a week. Daphnia are small crustaceans measuring one to four millimeters, of the genus Daphnia. They live in fresh and stagnant waters, with some species tolerating slightly brackish conditions. Their internal organs can be seen through their translucent bodies.

🍕Creating a Sorority:🍕

It is possible to create a harmonious cohabitation among female bettas, provided that certain essential rules are followed to avoid conflicts. Inexperienced individuals should not attempt to form a sorority, as it is crucial to recognize signs of stress and common betta diseases before embarking on this project.

First Rule: The group must consist of at least five females to establish a stable hierarchy and reduce aggression. Some females will be dominant, while others will be submissive. To minimize the risk of fights, it is preferable to choose sisters born together.

Second Rule: Avoid Crowntail varieties, known for their aggressiveness, as well as females sold in pet stores, as it is difficult to guarantee that they are truly sisters, even if the seller claims so.

Third Rule: For a successful sorority, an aquarium of at least 26 gallons is necessary, with a properly cycled nitrogen cycle. The aquarium should be densely planted to create an aquatic jungle with numerous hiding spots, such as clay tubes, perfect for resting or hiding.

Fourth Rule: Regularly check the water parameters. Ensure to provide appropriate live or frozen food for your females and have backup tanks ready in case of conflicts.

Important Note: Zero risk does not exist!